Just a quick post to sum up what I managed to do over the holidays. (Note to self: Close office from Dec 24 to Jan 1. Just give in.)
Added about 20" to my weaving project. This brings the total to 51" woven so far. I warped on 5.5 yards, so there’s a LONG way to go. 20" represents 1 day’s spinning, which yielded 8 plied bobbins of semi-worsted yarn. (Carded, not combed…but I haven’t figured out how to ‘spin woolen’ versus ‘spin worsted’. I think I’m probably spinning worsted.)
Bluebonnet gown is wearable. Yes, I want to see a picture too, but work calls.
Daan’s cote has sleeves pinned in but not sewn.
The garden is completely prepped for seedling setout. Pineapples are moved. Sprinkler system repaired. And the lemon tree is budding again, already, before we could do a proper prune. Note to self: Prune lemon while picking fruit. The foliage smells fabulous. We also managed to plot out the whole front formal garden on paper, so I can sit down with my seed stash and figure out what seedlings to start. Oh, and we got some bamboo for a screen in the back – which will yield stakes for the future.
I’ve started a small drawstring bag that I’ll finish tonight – just have to fingerbraid the cord, and cut the slits that it will run through. Also I want to cut out a new snood – last year’s doesn’t fit over my braids now that they’re longer. I have some thoughts about starting the braids on top of my head, rather than underneath. And finally I want to make some linen hose for Saltare. Then I’ll be ready for Jan 12.
A good thing, since I sent in my registration today.
Honnora asked me to give you an answer on your woolen worsted question.
first comes prep to get a true worsted you have to comb or used combed top. True wool requires carded rolags that you have rolled and spin length wise so the fibers create some puffy space in the yarn.
True worsted is spun what is often called inchworm fashion now. that is, you draft in short lengths between your fingers, release a bit with your front hand and let the trist run up to the back and and then bring your front hand to the back smoothing the yarn. You move your back and back and repeat.
True woolen yarn requires a long draw spinning technique.
I hope this made sense.
I took a class with Patsy Zawistoski in the fall she has a great booklet for sale that deals with woolen and worsted spinning. You can order it on her website http://www.spinninguru.com/index.html
Click on “to Order” and then scroll down to the booklets.
I will try to show Gayle the difference before she comes down to visit you.
Well, just because you don’t have enough projects going, here’s one for you:
http://lox.powerblogs.com/posts/1147125661.shtml
Making your own wool combs! With about $15 in supplies. Looks interesting. My comments–I wonder if two rows would work as well, instead of three (my English combs are 4 rows–but the Vikings that I use the most are only 2). And do you know anyone with a find grinding wheel so that you could smooth the nail heads? Most that I’ve seen are a little rough on the ends. Or if you have a dremel tool that might work.
Either way–it’s intriguing!
Happy new year!
–Ann
Thanks for your comment, Wendy!
Also thanks for relating worsted to short draw and woolen to long. That makes a lot of sense to me, as I have done both short and long draw, and had observed how the fibers behave differently, but didn’t see why you would choose one or the other, beyond mere preference or skill.
I’m going to get a set of combs lent to me in a couple of weeks, so I can start trying to make true worsted (= dense, parallel, shiny, long fiber). I suppose I shouldn’t even bother worrying about trying for true woolen with this alpaca, and move on to a shorter wool for that.
I’m concerned that doing a true worsted with alpaca might take away the lovely qualities of it. The camelid fibers can get a bit wirey if they’re not spun with a bit of loft. That said–nothing beats sampling. What will be your end use for this yarn?