GFD – Fitted sleeve

I’ve been plugging away on my Bathhouse Keeper Shift, which is acting as a toile for the bodice part of my Gothic Fitted Dress.  It’s going well.  However, because my instructor, the La Cotte Simple site, which does such a great step-by-step job of explaining how to fit the bodice, somehow doesn’t talk about how to generate the sleeve cap and armseye, I’ve been scared of the GFD’s sleeve.  (The shift doesn’t have a sleeve.)

Tory set me onto this site, which helps to draft a pattern.  I made this up in my sloper fabric, and tried it on.  I got a nice fit when my arm was straight, but the firm twill bunched uncomfortably in the crook of my elbow.  Back to the sleeve bits that are covered on La Cotte Simple – the ‘elbow hinge’ of the Charles de Blois.  While wearing my prototype sleeve, it was a simple thing to pinch out the extra fabric causing the trouble.  Pinned, basted, and trimmed out, it looks like this when not on:
Cotesleeve
(I’m afraid that’s the best picture I have – taking a non-fuzzy picture of yourself in a mirror with your right arm when your right arm is the subject doesn’t seem to be possible without a tripod, and I ran out of time.)

I took the sleeve to Grub and Garb yesterday, and it was much admired.  Lots of interest from others in learning how to make a GFD according to these methods.  I offered to do a workshop for some of our newbies, who know how to sew from patterns, but not how to think about drafting them and fitting on a body.

So now I fear I have no reason not to cut into linen for the versatile dress.  That will be this weekend, since there is no Project Night and I’m not traveling.

Both very exciting and terrifying.  Wouldn’t it be lovely to have the bluebonnet layer done for December’s Grub and Garb? (Dec 9)

2 thoughts on “GFD – Fitted sleeve

  1. Are you a member of the Yahoo group aotc (Age of the Cotte Hardie), there is a huge amount of knowledge on that list and they would probably be able to point you in the right direction with fixing your arms eye.

  2. Talk to Rose Mary. She has a GFD that has very nice arm movement. She cut the sleeve further into shoulder. Also remember Sir “Oh What’s-his-name?” (I”m so bad with names, Viscountess Marion’s SO) from Gatalop who showed you his fighting cote and how it is cut on the bias so that he has excellent movement?

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